oxibenzona

Oxybenzone: What It Is and Why You Should Avoid It in Your Sunscreen

You're looking at your sunscreen packaging and you see a list of ingredients that looks like it came straight out of a chemistry textbook. Among all those strange names, there's one that frequently appears in conventional sunscreens and has been raising more and more questions in recent years: oxybenzone, also known as benzophenone-3. If you've wondered what it is exactly, if it's really a problem, or if it's just scaremongering, here's a straightforward and honest explanation, because that's the only way it makes sense to talk about these things.

What is oxybenzone and what is it used for?

Oxybenzone is a chemical sunscreen filter used in sunscreens to absorb ultraviolet radiation, mainly UVB and some UVA rays, and convert it into heat before it reaches the deeper layers of the skin. It is very effective at what it does, integrates well into light textures, and for these reasons, it has been one of the most commonly used ingredients in conventional sun protection for decades.

If you've ever used a sunscreen with a very fluid texture, no white residue, and a typical summer sunscreen smell, there's a good chance it contained oxybenzone in its formula. It's one of those ingredients that are everywhere: in sunscreens, in moisturizers with SPF, in lip balms with sun protection, in hair products with UV filters.

Why has it started to raise concerns?

The problem isn't that oxybenzone performs poorly as a filter. The problem is what it can do beyond staying on the skin's surface, and this is where things get a bit more complicated.

Unlike mineral filters, which act as a physical barrier that stays on top of the skin, oxybenzone is a chemical filter that is absorbed. And when we say it's absorbed, we mean it: several studies have detected oxybenzone in blood, urine, and even breast milk after regular use. This doesn't automatically mean it's toxic, but it does raise questions about what it does once it's inside the body.

One of those questions has to do with endocrine disruptors. Some studies have found that oxybenzone can act similarly to estrogen in the body, meaning it could interfere with the hormonal system. Research is not yet conclusive in humans, and European regulatory authorities still consider it safe within authorized limits. But the debate exists and is legitimate, especially when we talk about daily use over many years or application in children and pregnant women.

Furthermore, some people with sensitive skin have developed photoallergic reactions to oxybenzone: irritation, redness, or eczema that appears after sun exposure. It doesn't happen to everyone, but it is a documented reaction worth knowing about.

The problem of the sea and coral reefs

This is perhaps the most compelling part of the debate about oxybenzone, because here there isn't as much ambiguity as there is in its effects on human health.

Every time someone swims in the sea with conventional sunscreen, some of that product ends up in the water. And oxybenzone, along with octinoxate, is one of the filters that has been shown to cause the most damage to coral reefs. Studies have found that it can cause bleaching and deformation in corals, alter their DNA, and hinder their reproduction, even in very low concentrations.

The impact is so clear that Hawaii and Key West have passed laws prohibiting the sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate. Palau, one of the most important diving destinations in the world, has also banned them since 2020. These are not territories that have made this decision lightly: they have done so because the data points in a fairly clear direction.

If you swim in the sea, rivers, or any natural environment, this information matters.

The alternative: mineral filters without nanoparticles

The good news is that a real alternative has been working well for years: mineral filters, mainly zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Instead of absorbing solar radiation and transforming it into heat, they create a physical barrier on the skin that reflects and scatters UV rays before they penetrate.

They have some clear advantages: they are not absorbed into the skin in the same way as chemical filters, they do not raise the same questions about hormonal disruption, and they are much more respectful of marine ecosystems, especially when the particles are non-nano in size (something important, because nanoparticles can be more problematic for both the skin and the environment).

Their reputation for leaving a white residue was real in old formulas, but current formulations have advanced a lot, and today you can find mineral sunscreens with lighter textures and much more discreet finishes than before.

How to read your sunscreen's INCI and detect oxybenzone (and other filters)

This is the most needed part, and almost no one explains it well. INCI is that list of ingredients in small print that appears on the packaging of any cosmetic. Ingredients are always ordered from highest to lowest concentration, so the first ones on the list are the most prominent in the formula.

To find out if your sunscreen contains oxybenzone or other chemical filters under scrutiny, look for these names in the list:

Oxybenzone: appears as Oxybenzone, Benzophenone-3, or BP-3. This is the main subject of this article.

Octinoxate: appears as Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octinoxate. It is also banned in Hawaii along with oxybenzone due to its impact on corals.

Octocrylene: appears as Octocrylene. We explained this in detail in our article on octocrylene. Another chemical filter with open questions about systemic absorption and potential endocrine disrupting activity.

Homosalate: appears as Homosalate. The European Commission has already recommended reducing its maximum permitted concentration precisely because of its possible hormonal effects.

Avobenzone: appears as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane. It is the most widely used UVA filter in Europe, and although it has fewer concerns than the previous ones, it is usually combined with other problematic filters like octocrylene to stabilize it.

On the other hand, if you see these names, it's a mineral filter:

Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are the two reference mineral filters. If it also says non-nano or no nano somewhere on the packaging or product sheet, even better: it means that the particles are of a size that does not penetrate the skin or easily disperse in the aquatic environment.

A quick trick: if the sunscreen has a very light, almost watery texture, and leaves no white residue when applied, it most likely contains chemical filters. Mineral sunscreens always have a bit more body, although the latest generation has come quite close.

Myths about oxybenzone that need clarification

"If it's authorized in Europe, then it's absolutely safe": Regulatory authorization means it's considered safe within current usage limits, but that doesn't mean there isn't an open scientific debate. Limits and evaluations are reviewed over time as new data becomes available.

"Mineral filters offer less protection": This stemmed from older formulas with heavy texture and irregular coverage. Current, well-formulated mineral sunscreens offer equivalent broad-spectrum protection.

"Oxybenzone only affects tropical corals, so it doesn't affect me if I swim here": The impact of chemical filters on aquatic ecosystems is not limited to tropical reefs. Any natural aquatic environment can be affected by the accumulation of these compounds.

"The white residue from mineral sunscreens is unavoidable": Not anymore. Formulas with controlled non-nano particle sizes have greatly improved the aesthetics of these products.

About Alma Eko

At Alma Eko, we only offer sunscreens with mineral filters, without oxybenzone or any other chemical filter. If you prefer a higher SPF, you'll find several options for SPF 50 mineral sunscreens without chemical filters in our catalog, for adults, children, and facial use.

You can view the entire catalog of mineral sunscreens at almaeko.com.

Frequently asked questions about oxybenzone

1. Is oxybenzone banned in Spain or Europe?

No, in Europe, oxybenzone remains an authorized filter for use in cosmetics within certain concentration limits. The ban exists in some territories like Hawaii, Key West, and Palau, mainly due to its impact on marine ecosystems.

2. Is oxybenzone dangerous for children?

There is no official ban for use in children in Europe, but many pediatric dermatologists recommend opting for mineral filters for young children, precisely because they are not absorbed in the same way and their safety profile is clearer for frequent use.

3. If I've used sunscreens with oxybenzone for years, should I be concerned?

There's no reason to be alarmed. The scientific debate is about continuous exposure and long-term cumulative effects, not about one-time use. If you want to be more cautious from now on, simply switching to a mineral sunscreen is sufficient.

4. Do sunscreens with mineral filters last less time on the skin?

No, their duration is equivalent to that of chemical filters under normal conditions of use. In both cases, it is advisable to reapply every two hours and after swimming, which is the general guideline for any sunscreen.

5. Is non-nano zinc oxide safe for the skin?

Yes. Non-nano sized particles remain on the skin's surface without penetrating deeper layers, making them safe for both the skin and the environment when the product enters water.

6. How do I know if my sunscreen contains oxybenzone?

Check the INCI ingredient list (the small print on the packaging) and look for any of these names: Oxybenzone, Benzophenone-3, or BP-3. If you see any of these, the product contains oxybenzone. If the filters listed are Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide, it is a mineral filter.

If you want to see which mineral sunscreens we have available at Alma Eko, take a look at almaeko.com

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